Februari 24, 2017
hi, i am bob with lps computer. today we aregoing to do a tutorial tape on how to replace thecarriage belt on the designjet t1100 the procedure is exactly thesame for the designjet t1120, t610 almost identical for the z2100, z3100 andthe z3200. so this video basically be for all six ofthose printers. we are going to do a 24-inch, t1100 today. the length does notmatter. all the pieces are same except for the length of them,things that are obviously longer. i am going to be using a kit that's providedby lps computer. this is where do it yourselfers or for a technician who wants to do it the first
time the kit is a good way to go for a number ofreasons, and i will cover those reasons here in a minute. the kit obviously includesthe correct belt for the machine. these belts are made for lps on a moldthat we had made. these are made. these belts are made domestically in the midwest by a largebelt manufacturer. these belts use the latest technology and belt materials. the the black material is high-density polyurethane. the difference between this and (i don'tknow for sure if the oem uses an antioxidant or not) but ours does. these belts will notoxidized over time and i know that after
after about five years the oem willstart to disintegrate. we have only been making these belts forseven years so we don't know if they are going to go longer than seven years ornot. so far so good. they are doing great! the internal fibers on this are kevlarfrom dupont, also american made. the imports make all sorts of claimsabout what they are made of. we have bought a number of them and cut themapart and analyzed the. they are all made out of neoprene and fiberglass.it is 1950s technology. there is also a lot of variation on thelength and so on, so i do not believe that
their quality control is quite as tightas ours. our belts vary less than 1mm over the entirelength of the belt. that is our specificantion. the tools to make the repair arealso included. this is the 39 piece toolkit piece here and you have all the torx bit sizesyou need with the exception of two that are kind of special. these are extended torx that you willneed. one we will be using to unlock the carriage. and another one we need toremove a piece on this side. unless you have these you have a lotof difficulty doing either of those chores.
the kit also comes with writteninstructions. there are illustrated step by step and these arecondensed out of the service manual. the service manual is also included on a cdwhich i don't seem to have at the moment but a cd is a cd. we also include non-evaporating oil in the kit that is for the rail that carriage rides back and forth on. it is kind of important that theresistance created by friction on this stays constant over time because thatis a calibration of the machine does generally only when you're doing they-axis calibration. after that the machine never
looks at it again so if the resistancechanges it is going to affect your print quality. you will get a zig-zag if itgets real extreme. nice thing to have. this is calibration medium. it is a high gloss photo coatedplastic. the reason we like to use the plasticfor the calibration is because it is very resistant to expansion or contraction because of changes in temperature from your hands or from theenvironment. and also when paper absorbs the ink it expands. on this one, the inkstays right on the surface of the coating so it is a very stablemedium that we have used for many years
and fix thousands of machines, calibratedthousands of machines with this so we are very confident that this is the bestpossible option for calibrating the machines. and i think that is about it for the kit.as an added bonus you are probably going to want to watch thisvideo all the way to the end because i am going to show you how to make c4 plasticexplosives out of a play dough baking soda and vinegar. c4 is very handyto have around the house. for instance if you need to breakup fire wood the easy way or i say gofer control or or or clearing out clogged drains.
and it makes a unique gift item for your wife or your girlfriend or both of them. anyway, let us take this thing apartand get going. ok, the first thing we need to do iscover removal. both ends are going to come off here. to do that we have toget this piece off. this can be a little bit of a challenge if you have not doneit before. i have the piece from another printer. from the inside. this latches in, here, here and herewith these thumb latches, finger latches. these go into two slots along the top edgehere. so what we are going to do is reach up underneath and push up
on these and unlatch them. i will show youwhat i mean. with this unlatched the first one and then the others, thenyou swing it up like this and lift it off. the reason we need to get that off isbecause there are hidden screws on both sides. one is right here and there is oneexactly like it on the other side. that has to come off. ok. normally this will have six ink cartridges in them.w have already taken the ink out and there is another screw right here thathas to come out. these are all t15. the one down there and this one.
also, this end cover needs to come off. there is a finger latch right there.push it in and it comes right off. then there is a screw right here on theunderside, that has to come out. another hidden screw we have to uncover here, soi am going to take the formatter out there are thumb screws here on both sides. loosen those and pull this out and takeit out of the machine. these are latches that that hold this grey cover on, so we are going to undo those. lift up onthe grey piece a little bit. pry these out and this just pops out. there isthe screw we are after right there.
and there is one more screw on the backwe need to take out and that is in this hole right here, so i am going to stop thevideo right here to take those out and then i'll show you where all the screwsare on the other side. ok, i have removed the screws that i talkedabout a minute ago. the other things we need to take offhere before i can slide this cover off is the cutter bracket, and the cutter and the paper release lever. this is just a t15 screw, to loosen thisplastic piece, and we can pull the cutter right out. the spring i usually just let hang. then we have three t15
screws to take out and then the levercomes off. the only other thing holding it now issome clips right here so i need to push those loose with a screwdriver and nowit should slide off. and that is the right cover. i am going to swing themachine around here now and show you the screws for the right side cover. theright side cover is on the right side of the machine (ironically). the screw i showed you on the other sidedown in here, that is one of them. there is a hidden screw up in here. on the z-series there is an ink supply station right hereon the t-series there is not. this is
held down by two latches down the middle. and you open this with brute force.these latches right here hold on to the inside edge of this hole.you can see there is no ink supply station there, but there should be a screw rightthere but it's not, it's missing. normally it will be there though. thisend cap does not need to come off. the screw that was hidden on the other side isright here so it's going to be an easy one. we still have the one underneath thatneeds to come out and one more on the back
that's in this hole right here.and once again i am going to take a break and get all these screws out and we willtake this cover off. we have got all the screws out of this this side also has as the clips righthere that are going to need to be released to get the right hand covers off. ok, the next thing we are going to do isunlock the carriage. the carriages is over the service station. the service stations thisbig black thing under here. it has a capping mechanism to keep theprint heads from drying out and
it also has a squeegee mechanism to keepthem clean. and it has a whole bunch of absorption pads down inside here to absorb waste ink. but when you power off the carriagecomes over and the capping mechanism comes up and locks it.so we need to do is unlock that capping mechanism. this is where we are going touse one of those extended torx bits and i will show you which one. i am going to use the t10 and there is ahole right here that goes into a cone that centers in on the location for thiswe cannot get it wrong. when it goes in it just automatically seats inside the thetorx receptacle. what i am doing is
turning the shaftof the motor that drives the the capping mechanism. so if we turn this far enough it is goingto uncap it. it takes quite a few turns to get it to do that. some of these i have seen look like they have silicon caulking down inside there and you cannot get this to fit in. if you are lucky enough to have one ofthose you might not be able to unlock itdoing it this way.
power the printer on and when the carriage moves, pull the power cord out. the carriage will be unlocked. and lets see if this is loose yet. no, i have got to turn this some more. there it goes. the mechanism i was talking aboutis is right here. it is this dirtyest part of the machine. you see that i am just turning it andstill moving backwards even though it is unlocked. if i go the other way you start tosee the squeegees the capping mechanisms behind the squeegee. one squeegee for eachhead.
i am just going to leave this back here out ofthe way. this will reset itself once we power on. so that is how you unlock the carriage. the next thing we need to do is bring thecarriage over to the service position for the carriage to take the print headsout. the reason we need to take the print heads out is so that we can get thecrane portion of the ink tube system out. there are four screws here we need to takeout and once that is out we can lift that clear of the of the carriage.i will put these someplace safe and i will be right back.
a couple of days ago a high school student asked me what thesecret of my success was. i told him it was sincerity. and when i learned to fakesincerity i had a made. ok, with those out i like to movethe carriage all the way to the right to to pull that out. this just gets a little lessinterference with the frame you can lift this out. set it out of the way. now we still needto latch this or it will bang into the frame and will not move.
so now the ink tube system is clear ofthe carriage. most of the stuff here has got tocome off so we will start with the trailing cable. the trailing cable isthis flat ribbon cable that goes from the carriage to the main electronicsboard. these are called zif or zero insertionforce connectors. they have little wedging devices on them. they pinch the end of the cable into theconnector. once they are lifted up, it slips out with zero force. i do not lift up on these too forcefully. they areeasy to break. if they do
happen to break it is not a big problem. you put it back in and just force thewedge in when you are done. it just will not be captive to the connector anylonger. this piece is coming off so we need toget all these wires free from the ties. now i can lift thetrailing cable up through this slot and we need to do this so that we can accesst8 screws that are back inside here that are attached to the paper paperbail internally. this is where we need the other extendedt8 bit to go in. undo these two screws. there is onlyone in there because i did not put the
other one in a while ago. so i will switch back to the extended t8 and take that off of there. thestandard t8 is way too short to get in to get that. and now lets switch to a t20. now i'm going to take off these screwsfrom here to get this plate off. these are all pretty short screws. the onlyexception to that is this one right here because that holds down the belttensioner and its pretty long so you just remember that the long one goes with the belt tension all the shortones go around the perimeter. i am going to loosen
this and you'll see that it's it isactually loosening the the belt. i am going to take that allthe way out so it is free and nowa this should just come off.what did i miss? oh, i didn't take the encoder off, an important detail! that isgoing to be a t10 screw. the encoder is a device that has a gridprinted on it and it goes to an optical sensor so that as it goes through itsees the grid counts the lines reports back to the electronics position speed direction of the carriage. now this should slip off. it is still not slipping role well. ok
it was hanging up on one of these postshere where it slides into the belt tensioner. ok, now i can bring the carriage on overand we need to undo this from the motor pully on the other end. it slipped off onits own. the motor belt pulley isright here. just lift it off of there once the tensioner is loose. this one just fell off. ok, i believe the instructions at thispoint say to undo the trailing cable. i take a little shortcut here. the trailing cable is mounted bythese two t10 screws right here and
i will leave it attached to the carriage buti will loosen this to get enough slack so i can bring out of the machine. turn the carriage over take the old beltoff. put the new on and slip it back in there. the reason being that the the connector onthe carriage makes a real tight 90-degree turn it is hard for me to getmy fingers in there. you have more agile hands than i do, then feel free to goahead and do it that way but i really prefer doing this by myself. ok, that just slides forward andlets go its mounting. we are going to
pull some slack here to get thecarriage to actually come out of the machine. you should be able to just lift thisout now and turn it over. here is where the belt is attached. younotice the teeth go in one direction and the ribs go in the other direction. the teethalways go toward the motor. that is how it is driven so just in thisorientation when we take the belt off so when you put the other one on it's going to go back the same way. the transition happens right between theteeth and the ribs so it comes out rather easily. put this here for now. this is
actually a new belt that we put on earlierand it is not really needing to be replaced again. you need to takethe springs out. this pulleys got a little collar on it. just make note of whichway that is the on. it goes on toward this ridge and then i will show you how totake it apart here with another one. you can use a screwdriver of knife blade to get the springs out. if you do this right they will fly under a piece of furnature and you will never see them again.again or, sometimes they stay in your hand that is acceptable also butonce that's those are out of the way
this piece will come out and then youcan see the slots there that the pully rides in. and then stickthis through the belt put it on here, put this backin and put the springs back in place. they go in easier than they come out. and that is all there is to that. ok, so we can reattach this belt. do itat the point where transition is. i am going to set the ribs towards this end and the teeththe other way and i've got this upside down. that won't work. this just needs to be woven down through theslot there. when it is in place there are
teeth on the carriage mounting that matchthe teeth on the belt and it becomes very solid. now i am going to make sure we are not twistedhere with the trailing cable. start sliding this back together. i'm going to pull this all the way out just because i want to make sure i don'tdamage it so we're going to make a special effortof putting that back in. i think i may have trappedthis belt. i may have twisted this one.
ok. i did. ok, i am going to put the trailing cableback in position at this point. so i want to get those screws. ok, the trailing cable anchor is back andnext we want to make sure the belt is not tangled in any way. so,stretch it out and i put over the motor pulley just to make sure i don'thave it twisted, pull it up snug so i can take a look at full length and down tothe tensioner. just set this here for now i am going to put this end plate back onso we can tighten this up and then we will put the ink tube system back on and thenwe'll feed the encoder strip through.
once again, these posts right here go inside these holes. that locates the tensioner. and the trailing cable is going through this rectangular hole. these are the t20 screws. this thing is keyed at a couple of differentplaces. one of them is right here. the white nylon bearing is going to goover this black piece. this hole is also keyed and i am putting the screwin right now. so you cannot get the plate on the wrong don't worry about that. now, the top screw gets the grounding strap.
i have always been of the opinion that the engineers getcarried away with these screws. they did not consult with me. more downhere. i notice these screws breed. i always have some left over when i am done. thelong screw is going to go in there. so the first thing we need to do is getthis started on the posts here. i see i managed to get that in upside down. yes, i did. ok, this lip right here has togo toward the front of the machine. when you take this apart again and make surethat lip is facing front. so we will take a break here and i will do that. and come right back. ok you can see theproper orientation of the of the
tensioner. the lip goes to thefront there's no lip on the back side. i am going to get the tensioner overthe pins there, then use the screw to get it started and that will pull the belt tensioner up to the frame. and it will tension the belt. these springs of a specific valueand when they are tight against the frame they arecompressed the amount that hp wants and puts the proper amount oftension on the belt. there is no adjustment for belt tension. let the springs manage that. now carriage motion should be nice and smooth as itgoes end to end.
reconnect and tube system. oops this thing has decided to be in the... it is because i screwed this forward alittle bit and was bumping into the locking mechanism. so this just goesright back in the way it came out. i will put a couple of screws in and then we will moveback over that one for the last time the next thing we need to do is get theencoder strip through the carriage and reconnected on the other side. this is the encoder strip. it is hardto see exactly where i am going to thread this through so i am going to useanother carriage and show you exactly
where the thing goes through. thecarriage is oriented like that in the machine. this is where the the carriage rod or the rail it rides on. this is the bushing, and right above it is a slot. you see that it goes the right through thecarriage. there is the encoder sensor itself and itcomes out the other side. so even though you cannot see what i amdoing, i am going to be threading it through here pulling out the other sideand then we will reattach it. i will straighten this a bit.
the other end of this is attached to a pieceof spring steel so we need to pull fairly hard on this. it is prettytough, you're not going to break it. so we are going to pull this out. pullingwith my left hand and then putting the strip over the locator pegs here to hold it in place and we will put the screw in and make sure it stays there. that's not quite all the way in. ok, the encoder strip is in. the next thingwe are going to do is make sure we got free motion the whole way. looks good.
ok, now we've got to put this piece backon for the paper bail. and we are going to take a break here because i don't see the screws. and next we need to put the bail lever bracket back on. this flag is going to go into this sensor. that will help you orient how this issupposed to go. and of course it moves and that is what it is supposedto do. i'll move this to see a littlebetter. you are going to need the extended t8 torx bit on this one. ok, the trailing cable goes between there and it's got to go through this
curved slot so this doesn'tshafe in normal operation so i will carefully feed it downthrough there just like that. this goes into a clip back in there.putting this back in the zif (zero insertion force) connectors is just theopposite of taking it out. we are going to carefully put in there with these loose, untill they bottom out andthen push down on these and that wedges them in place and under quite stable. there are red lines on here that will help you see if they are seated. they have to be in square or they will probably not have a good connection and
you'll come up with an 11:11 error meaning that theprinter doesn't like the way the trailing cable is plugged in and then that'sabout all there is to that. now i think we're about ready to put thecovers back on and we can run the calibration. so i am going to put thecovers back on. the procedure is the exact opposite of taking them off. we slide them on there and they tend theclip on to these first and will stay in place. and then just remember where the screws came from. one underneath, the
hidden one in the front, one in from theback covers, the hidden one up here, and and i think that's about it so... give me a minute and i will put the coversback on and we will get into the all right the the plotter is backtogether, i have powered it on and we are in a ready state. it is asking me for paper. we aregoing to do is a the paper advance calibration. the machine iscalibrated at the factory and in theory even if you change parts out it doesn'thave to be done.
the real proof is out is the output appearance. since we have already got thecalibration media here and this is a really easy thing to do we are going to do it anyway. i'm going to feed the sheet in through the back. i am going to open it uphere and load it. this is the film media. thecalibration absolutely positively has to be done with film media. this is a sheet that comes in the kit. there it goes.
so, now it wants to know, are we loading a roll orare we loading a sheet. we are loading a sheet and will say ok. now we're going to tell the printer it is film becauseit is, and we're going to tell it's matt film. for this calibration choose matt. so this thing will go through the loadingmotions and load the sheet. it is going to take a minute or so. we will be right back. ok, the paper is loaded and themachine is happy we are going to go into the main menu. go to thecalibration, print quality menu. this one
with the stars, hit okay and we're goingto go to the paper advanced calibration right here, and we're going to calibratethe paper advanced just press ok and the machine takes it from there. it will print a pattern and we will showthat to you in a minute. it's going to take a couple of minutesto print so we will once again take a short breakand that is printed i'll show you. ok, calibration is complete. now thefinal test you would do with this would be to print something from your yourproduction that you would need so that you can see that there is nobanding. banding is when the papers too
far and then the space between the theprinthead scans is too wide and youget a white line between. if it is too short you get dark in between. if you do see thatit isreally easy to fix. once again we will go into the menu and goback into the print quality menu. i doubt that you are going to need to dothis but if you do this is this is how to do it. we are going to do the advancedcalibration and then the adjust advanced calibration. so if there is dark banding you're going to hit the up arrow shows and that will
give some percentage of we're going togrow the sizes of the above the swath that is being painted by the print heads. and you would choose whatever happens orit was dark banding just go the opposite direction and whatever you can you seethere and you like it you would hit ok it was store you print something look atit if you like it you leave it alone if you don't go back and fine tune it somemore. this was right at zero and i know fromearlier printing on this one of the embedded images it was perfect. so we are just going to gowith that. if the film is perfect
everything else should also be perfect. that is why you get the plastic media withthe kit. we can do this as accurately as it canpossibly be made. that is about it. the machine isready to go back into production. again, if you want to buy the kit click on the link that's embeddedhere somewhere and we'll be happy send one to you. you have have a great day! bye.
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